By Chevaun Jackson
The bar J. Mendel set for the male designers of 2010 is somewhat rude and uncalled for. And I love him for it! Every piece, every look is a standout. The collection as a whole is just gorgeous at first glance. It’s chic, fancy and for the woman who wants to appear high maintenance— or truly is— any piece from his line this season is a must have.
What I love about J. Mendel is that he doesn’t over dress the model; and this includes the shoes— a simple black boot. There are not too many things going on at once. It is sleek, simple and glamorous. But what else is to be expected from a family-owned business that traces back five generations to fashion consults of the Russian aristocracy? Known for furs, J. Mendel continues to prove why it is a relevant line that has spanned more than a century. The variety of furs is impressive and what Gilles Mendel, owner and designer, does with them is exquisite. Drawing inspiration from caves, Mendel took away, “saturated colors–for the red for a degrade dress-textures, decay, browns and earth tones.” And indeed this dark collection, which starts out as an ode to the darkness of caverns with ever sophisticated black and onyx coats, expands into red, blue and dark metallic with subtle prints & textures on dresses like natural swirls and patterns found on cave walls. As seems to be the trend of this season, J. Mendel adds ruffles that are not overly bunched but carefree— more aesthetic interest than loads of volume. There are high waist belts, free flowing fabric on dresses that are cut ranging from one shoulder to V-neck to strapless. The cavernous theme is carried from the clothes to the accessories— rings and bracelets like shards plucked from inner linings of caves in natural tones.
The top dress in collection is a slate blue organza gown with pleated bodice and draped skirt. The top ensemble, a bleached silver fox with hooded vest, chocolate tweed and black faille dress, black mink mittens, and fur messenger bag, which screams attitude. And my favorite coat, a black fur coat with a black high waist belt—tasteful and elegant.
It’s no wonder J. Mendel’s attendees include those who are no strangers to high fashion like Brooke Shields. He is a fabulous designer and another one of my new favorites.