Just an hour and a half north of Tel Aviv is Jerusalem, the holiest city in Israel and also a city full of so much history. We went to Jerusalem for the weekend to rewalk the paths from our bible stories and it was a really unique experience.
We have some practical tips for seeing Jerusalem. You can get there by Uber and it will cost you around $100. Jerusalem’s Old City is very interesting and busy, so the best way to see it is through a guide. We used a guide named Yona Leshets (yona.leshets@gmail.com) and would highly recommend him.
We split the weekend into two days of very specific sightseeing. The first day was dedicated solely to the Old City and its four quarters. The second day, we went to the Dead Sea, Masada and other parts of the desert. These sights are closer to Jerusalem than Tel Aviv, so we did it on this part of the trip. We used the same Guide. Below, find our favorites from our day in Jerusalem and the Old City. Check back to our second day guide of the Dead Sea, Masada and others.
On day one, Our guide met us at our hotel and we walked to the old city. He taught us about the stone wall surrounding the city and the very many different rulers and religions that ran the city over the course of a thousand years. The history of the city and what it represents was super interesting. The city is broken into four quarters: Jewish, Muslim, Christian and Armenia. You can legitimately spend days in the old city, especially if you are religious, but here were our highlights from one full day there that you should tell your guide to include in your own tour.
Jewish Quarter:
Waling Wall: In the Jewish Quarter, visiting the Wailing Wall is a must. You’ve probably seen photographs of worshipers standing outside of this structure, which is all that is left of the first temple in Israel. People write their prayers on slips of paper and then stick them into cracks on the wall. The experience is moving even if you aren’t Jewish as it is the most religious spot in the world for Jewish people.
City of David: The City of David is an amazing archeological site with underground tunnels. It is thought to be the original area of ancient Jerusalem. We loved walking through this site, which is massive and could consume a whole day. It has a vista area that gives you a gorgeous view of Old City, perfect to take pictures from, so be sure to do that. Interestingly, the site is now located under an Arab neighborhood, which is indicative of the entire area because these groups that have conflicts with each other live in very close quarters. Touring the area, which is still a working archeological site, are very interesting.
Christian Quarter:
We are a little biased because both myself and my boyfriend are Christian, so this part of the Old City was particularly interesting to us. Our highlights included:
Walking the Stations of the Cross that Jesus walked while carrying the cross. As a Catholic School girl, every year around Lent we would do a prayer called the Stations of the Cross that represented Jesus’ journey of persecution. Being able to walk along the actual street that He carried the cross was so interesting to me. The street’s name is Via Dolorosa and it is very well marked with each station having a plackard describing the significance.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre: this church is one of the most important in all of the world. It is where Jesus’s body was brought after he was killed and his body was undressed, cleaned and prepared for burial. It is also where the tomb that Jesus was buried in is. This sight is filled with the pious making the journey from around the world and was very interesting to see. There is a long line to get into the tomb, so be prepared to wait if you visit it. We didn’t have time to wait in the line because of the crowds.
Last Supper Room: one of the most memorable bible scenes is Jesus’ last supper with his apostles. We’ve all seen the painting from da Vinci, and in Jerusalem, you can walk into the room where it is thought to have taken place. It is also the room where Jesus is said to have appeared to his followers after his death. This might have been my favorite part of the old city because I had such a vivid idea in my head of how it would have looked and in reality it was completely different. This barren room had light streaming into it and beautiful carvings in the wall, but was quite modest. That being said, it was cool to be where he was.
Muslim Quarter:
I found the Muslim quarter super fascinating. For one, you can see the ornate mosques when you are in higher parts of the Old City looking down in the panorama. There is also a very different feel and way of life in the Muslim quarter that is different from the other quarters.
Temple Mount Mosque: unfortunately you aren’t able to go into the Mosque unless you are Muslim, but it is beautiful to look at from the outside. The structure is on land that formerly housed Jewish and Christian religious sites, like much else of the old city. I liked that we were looking at it just as the call to prayer sounded, which was something I’d only ever heard in episodes of Homeland. Once it was called, we watched devout muslims walk up the hill with their prayer rugs to worship. There are a few select hours during the week where the general public can go inside the mosque.
The Muslim Market: The winding roads around the Muslim quarter were so interesting to me. they are filled with cool shops selling tapestries, accessories and other wares, as well as every day goods for the Muslims that live in the homes in the quarter. The result is that it doesn’t feel touristy at all because you are watching the locals do their grocery shopping as well as everyday goods. There are eateries and hookah cafes where the men sit outside smoking their hookahs and catching up while listening to Arabic music. It was definitely worth walking around in. There is also a hummus place that is supposed to be the best hummus in the world called Abu Shukri. We tried going but because it was during the call to prayer it was closed, so we didn’t get to experience it.
Armenian Quarter:
This is the smallest of the four quarters in the area and it is the least developed in terms of religious monuments. We used it as a kickoff point for our tour, but didn’t visit any of the sights in the quarter.
Mahane Yehuda Market: After sightseeing, be sure to check out Jerusalem’s vibrant Mahane Yehudi market. It is particularly vibrant on Thursday evenings when the areas teenagers and hipsters descend not he market and eat from its shops and order beers. During the day, hassidic Jews buy traditional Jewish food and ingredients for the week. It’s a great place to pick up spices or treats to bring back home with you. Be aware that on their holy day — sundown Friday to sundown Saturday, it is completely closed, as are most restaurants and other establishments in Jerusalem.
Sunset Drinks at the King David Hotel: The most luxurious hotel in Jerusalem is the historic King David Hotel which overlooks the old city. Pop onto their terrace for a sunset aperitif after a long day of sightseeing before dinner for beautiful views and great cocktails.
Dinner at Machneyuda or Yudale: One of the best restaurants in Israel is in Jerusalem and it is called Machneyuda. If you plan on going, be sure to make a reservation months in advance because it is insanely hard to get into. We weren’t able to snag one, but a good alternative is their sister restaurant and bar across the street called Yudale, which is by the same owners. It plays really loud fun, music and you sit in a semicircle surrounding a cook who whips up food on fire in front of you. The bartenders sing and dance and everyone has a really good time. Bonus: the food was really amazing — the loved the salad, birthday cake (a must!) and pretty much everything we ate.
Israel Travel Guides:
Travel Guide: Old City Jerusalem, Israel
Travel Guide: Tel Aviv, Israel
Travel Guide: Where to Eat in Tel Aviv
Travel Guide: Masada, The Dead Sea & The Desert